NORTHERN IRELAND // This museum stands on the site of the shipyard where the Titanic was built, but that's just the tip of the iceberg: the complex is a multimedia extravaganza that immerses you in marvellous minutiae covering every aspect of the ship's history via rides, talking holograms, rare film footage, poignant passenger accounts, computer 'fly-throughs' '- even odours and heightened temperatures. It adds up to a multisensory experience that feels almost like sneaking aboard. The museum's gleaming, angular edifice occupies the head of the slipway from which the liner was launched. But although 'start' always leads to 'sink' in Titanic talk, the museum doesn't feel macabre, celebrating instead the achievements of ahead-of-their-time shipbuilders. As locals say, 'Titanic was built by Irishmen and sunk by an Englishman!'