SCOTLAND // Is it a ship? Is it a cliff? The flagship V&A Dundee - which takes the form of two enormous slatted, inverted pyramids - is a striking arrival on a waterfront that's seen all manner of sights. At its peak, Dundee built over 200 ships a year, including Scott of the Antarctic's Discovery. It saw off whalers and trading vessels stacked with jute and jam. The docks faded, but change is afoot. The V&A Dundee, which houses Scotland's biggest museum space and the best in Scottish design, is only part of the area's reinvention. The £1 billion project, which is due to finish in 2031, has been controversial. But gone are tangled roads and gloomy municipal buildings, replaced by gleaming modern structures, a park and a new station. Discovery Point (Scott's ship returned to its home port in 1986) is another must-visit, a triumph of grace and toughness designed to resist temperatures of -30°C. The redevelopment shines a spotlight on a city with fine museums and a glorious natural setting, where land meets sea and the thrum of Scotland's central belt bleeds into the beauty of the Highlands.