INDONESIA // Travelling by houseboat up a winding jungle river to visit free-roaming orangutans sounds like something out of a child's storybook. Yet it's something travellers do every day in southern Kalimantan, the world's best place to encounter Asia's largest ape. By day, a visit to Tanjung Puting National Park involves lounging on the deck of a klotok - a ramshackle, multi-storey liveaboard - your binoculars at the ready, the boat cruising the channel and making impromptu wildlife stops and visits to orangutan-feeding stations. You can also spot unusual proboscis monkeys, toothy crocodiles and swooping hornbills. By night, you'll play games, listen to the sounds of the jungle, count fireflies and retire to comfortable quarters. The journey lasts just three days, but travellers reminisce about it for the rest of their lives.