IRAN // Don't be fooled by Vank Cathedrals bland exterior: inside, every inch is covered with rich frescoes and gilded ornamentation, and the eye doesn't know what to admire first. Built between 1648 and 1655 during the reign of Shah Abbas I, the cathedral makes for a dramatic Christian counterpart to Esfahan's tile-tastic Naqsh-e Jahan Square. It cleverly combines church architecture with Islamic design, including a dome-topped sanctuary and warm floral decoration. The masterful artworks depict Bible stories, gruesome martyrdoms and pantomime demons. In the same complex, an interesting museum houses illustrated gospels and Bibles, some from the 10th century. The most intriguing item is a prayer written on a single hair, visible only with a microscope.