LAOS // Si Phan Don (Four Thousand Islands) is where Laos truly becomes the land of the lotus eaters: an archipelago of islands where the pendulum of time swings at half speed and life drifts by as lazily as the murky waters of the Mekong River. Some islands are backpacker playgrounds, but others are sleepy spits of sand dotted with tranquil fishing villages where you'll find inner and outer peace swinging in a hammock. Those who need more activity can pedal about on a bicycle, potter around local markets, take to the water in a kayak, spot dolphins and visit waterfalls (one of which you can zip line over). Don't miss a side trip to the Khon Phapheng Falls, a set of tumbling rapids that's the largest and most impressive of any on the Mekong.