CROATIA // It's the postcard image of a Mediterranean island: stark sea cliffs over azure waters, bobbing fishing boats, whitewashed houses with terracotta roofs, alleys with carved stone steps. Yet unlike some of its Greek neighbours, Vis remains pleasingly under-the-radar. Pebbly beaches such as Stiniva are reachable only by boat or by hairy scramble along a steep track. The hills, fragrant with rosemary and sage, frame views of ancient monasteries and fortresses. Cafes serve fresh seafood dishes enlivened with local olives and citrus; they pair nicely with white wines made from the local vugava grape. Off the southwestern tip, the island of Bisevo is famed for the Blue Cave, whose waters glimmer an other-worldly blue when the sun hits in the late morning.