TANZANIA // Lake Tanganyika's crystal-clear waters lap coves of powdery white sand that rise almost immediately to forested mountai slopes. Surely this must be one of Africa's most unique and most beautiful national parks, with its contrasts of colour and terrain, unforgettable scenery and sense of peaceful remoteness. In addition, Mahale is one of the world's best places to observe chimpanzees in th wild, with the main group well habituated to humans, thanks to a decades-long primate research project. Expect some strenuous, sweaty hiking with your guide to locate them, and respect the park's strict viewing rules, which have been put in place to protect the chimps. Evenings are a treat, spent relaxing on the beach and watchin the sun set in orange- and purple-hued magnificence over the lake.