PERU // It's not just the vast scale of the Colca, the world's second- deepest canyon that buries its way through southern Peru, that makes it so fantastical. It's the shifts in its mood. There are more scenery changes along its 100km (62-mile) passage than in most European countries; from the barren steppe of Sibayo, through the ancient farm terraces of Yanque and Chivay, into the steep-sided canyon proper beyond Cabanaconde. The most breathtaking canyon views are reserved for the condors gliding majestically overhead; land-bound humans must make do with dramatic viewpoints along the rim or a trek to the canyon bottom, where its depth - twice that of the Grand Canyon in the US - can truly be appreciated. You may bump into descendants of the Cabana and the Collagua people, who've called the passage home for centuries.