IRELAND // The starkly beautiful landscape of Connemara more than lives up to its name, the Irish word for 'Inlets of the Sea'. Tiny coves and jagged channels form a filigreed pattern along the peninsula's coastline and, inland, the scenery is no less dramatic, with desolate valleys, rusty bogs and green hills interspersed by black lakes. Village pubs host traditional music and serve seafood chowder made to closely guarded family recipes.