ICELAND // A wild, windswept promontory inhabited principally by grazing horses, the Snæfellsnes Peninsula casts a strange and powerful spell on all who visit. Jules Verne set Journey to the Centre of the Earth here, and New Age mystics have hailed it as one of the planet's principle 'energy sources'. Even spiritual sceptics must admit it has a lunar feel: black lava fields dot the landscape, while lonely lighthouses count among the few signs of humanity, standing on storm-lashed cliffs, pods of orcas skimming by. Presiding mightily over all is the white mass of Snæfellsjökull herself - a glacier topping an active volcano, whose fiery innards featured in Verne's book. Take a snowmobile or guided hike to the top to be rewarded with Iceland's most epic views: beaches stretching into oblivion, glaciers gathering on the horizon and the surging tides of the Atlantic on three sides - all with barely a soul around.

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