FRANCE // Even before arriving in Paris, the Eiffel Tower is pre-etched in travellers' minds as the defining symbol of the city. And once you're here, it dominates the skyline at every turn. But it's not until you're within it that you truly appreciate this architectural innovation designed by Gustave Eiffel originally as a temporary showpiece for the 1889 World's Fair. After taking the lift to the 3rd floor, from where Paris spreads out at your feet, the best way to admire its wrought-iron lattice girders is descending the 720 stairs.