IRELAND // Winding past pristine beaches, medieval ruins, seaside  villages, scattered islands, moody mountains and shimmering loughs,  this famous loop around the lveragh Peninsula tempts travellers to take  unplanned detours and leisurely stops. Spinning off the main route, the  scenic Skellig Ring offers yet more adventures along roads too narrow  for tour buses. Silent movie star Charlie Chaplin was so smitten that  he spent annual family holidays in the village of Waterville, where his  bronze statue stands on the seafront.