ARGENTINA // Prepare to be dazzled.  Stretching north through Jujuy province  towards the border with Bolivia, the  Quebrada de Humahuaca is a spectacular  valley of dry, river-scoured canyons  overlooked by mountains striped with a  spectrum of colorful layers of sediment  The light here reveals a landscape in  technicolour, as though the dimmer switch  for the sun has been turned to maximum,  illuminating every shade of creamy white,    moss green, pale pink and rusty red in the  canyons and mountains. Nowhere is the  ever-changing palette more vivid than at  Purmamarca's Cero de los Site Colores (Hill  of Seven Colours), which positively glows in  the early morning sun and evening light. Near  the town of Humahuaca, the mountains of  the Serranía de Hornocal form a jagged row  of teeth-like rocks in a kaleidoscope of burnt  oranges, saffron yellows and burgundies.  Dotting the valley are dusty indigenous    villages, with cobbled streets, pretty  adobe churches and market stalls selling  ponchos and textiles in colours that echo  the landscape. Traditional Andean culture  thrives: tempting smells of home-cooked  locro (stew) and the strumming of folk music  carry on the breeze.