INDIA // The main 16th-century Harmandir Sahib (Temple of God)  at Amritsar's Golden Temple is a vision of perfection, rising from a  shimmering pool, just part of a far greater gurdwara (religious complex)  that comprises the Punjab's spiritual home. Sikh pilgrims who come  here in their thousands are always keen to discuss their religion  with visitors - these conversations are best enjoyed among shady  colonnades, while chants echo gently along the marble surfaces of the  ethereally beautiful building.