NEPAL // The walk around Nepal's Annapurna massif has long been considered one of the world's great treks. The scenery is mesmerising and the sense of journey is psychologically satisfying, starting in rice paddies and climbing through yak pastures before crossing the mighty snow-bound Thorung La pass. It's everything a trek should be challenging, majestic and inspirational. And at the end of the day some of Nepal's best lodges offer hot meals, apple pie and pots of milky tea. The truth is that the trek has suffered in recent years, mainly due to road construction. Molar-rattling roads now parallel the first few days of the trek from Besi Sahar and for much of the western section from Muktinath to Beni. Not all is lost, though, because it's the side trips that make this a truly great trek, notably up to high-altitude Tilicho Lake or to the village of Ngawal, where breakfast terraces offer views of snow- capped peaks just across the valley.

How difficult is the Annapurna Circuit?

Altitude is one of the most challenging elements that make the Annapurna circuit difficult. As your body works harder to cope with the lack of oxygen, you will naturally walk more slowly when climbing at altitude, especially on flat terrain.